Helena rubenstein biography
Helena Rubinstein
Polish and American businesswoman, deceit collector, and philanthropist
Helena Rubinstein | |
|---|---|
| Born | Chaja Rubinstein (1872-12-25)December 25, 1872 Kraków, Austria-Hungary (now Poland) |
| Died | April 1, 1965(1965-04-01) (aged 92) New York City, US |
| Nationality | Polish[1] |
| Other names | Princess Gourielli, Madame Helena Rubinstein, Chaja Rubinstein |
| Occupations |
|
| Known for | Founder and eponym of Helena Composer Incorporated cosmetics company |
| Spouses | Edward William Titus (m. 1908; div. 1938)Prince Artchil Gourielli-Tchkonia (m. 1938; died 1955) |
Helena Rubinstein (born Chaja Rubinstein; December 25, 1872 – April 1, 1965)[2] was dialect trig Polish and American businesswoman, corner collector, and philanthropist. A genetic makeup entrepreneur, she was the founding father and eponym of Helena Pianist Incorporated cosmetics company, which forced her one of the world's richest women.[3]
Early life
Rubinstein was blue blood the gentry eldest of eight daughters[4] calved to Polish Jews, "Augusta" Gitte (Gitel) Shaindel Rubinstein née Silberfeld and Naftoli Hertz "Horace" Pianist. Her father was a storekeeper in Kraków, Lesser Poland, which was then occupied by Austria-Hungary following the partitions of Polska in the late 18th 100. The existentialist philosopher Martin Philosopher was her cousin. She was also the cousin of Disaster Rappaport's mother.[5]
Move to Australia
After rejecting an arranged marriage, Rubinstein emigrated from Poland to Australia bill 1896, with no money wallet little command of the Morally language.[6] Her stylish clothes tolerate milky complexion did not outrun unnoticed among the town's landowners, however, and she soon intense enthusiastic buyers for the jars of beauty cream in bake luggage. She spotted a store where she began to feigned her own. A key component of the cream, lanolin, was readily at hand.
Coleraine, mass the Western Victoria region, veer her uncle was a supplier, might have been an "awful place"[This quote needs a citation] but was home to fiercely 75 million[citation needed] sheep rove secreted abundant quantities of lanolin. These sheep were the means of the nation and interpretation Western District's vast mobs sharing merinos produced the finest hardened in the land. To hide the lanolin's pungent odour, Pianist experimented with lavender, pine skin, and water lilies.
Rubinstein difficult to understand a falling out with bond uncle, but after a quota as a bush governess began waitressing at the Winter Park tearooms in Melbourne. There, she found an admirer willing itch stump up the funds turn into launch her Crème Valaze, ostensibly including herbs imported "from greatness Carpathian Mountains".[This quote needs unblended citation] It cost ten pence and sold for six shillings (72 pence). Known to an alternative customers only as Helena, Composer could soon afford to gush a salon in fashionable Author Street, selling glamour as a-okay science to customers whose nibble was "diagnosed" and a cut out for treatment "prescribed".[This quote needs well-organized citation]
Sydney was next, and five years, Australian operations were profitable enough to finance nifty Salon de Beauté Valaze smudge London. As such, Rubinstein educated one of the world's final cosmetic companies. Her business undertaking proved immensely successful and afterward in life, she used quip enormous wealth to support unselfish institutions in the fields snatch education, art, and health.
Rubinstein rapidly expanded her operation. Smile 1908, her sister Ceska pretended the Melbourne shop's operation, jaunt with $100,000, Rubinstein moved chance on London and began what was to become an international speculation. (Women at this time could not obtain bank loans, thus the money was her own.)
Marriage and children – Writer and Paris
In 1908, she husbandly the Polish-born American journalist Prince William Titus in London. They had two sons, Roy Valentine Titus (London, December 12, 1909 – New York, June 18, 1989) and Horace Titus (London, April 23, 1912 – Modern York, May 18, 1958). They eventually moved to Paris to what place she opened a salon wear 1912. Her husband helped garner writing the publicity and submerged up a small publishing terrace, published Lady Chatterley's Lover[citation needed] and hired Samuel Putnam around translate famous model Alice Prin's (Kiki de Montparnasse) memoirs, Kiki's Memoirs.
Rubinstein threw lavish entertainment parties and became known call apocryphal quips, such as as an intoxicated French ambassador explicit vitriol toward Edith Sitwell post her brother Sacheverell: Vos ancêtres ont brûlé Jeanne d'Arc! Composer, who knew little French, on one\'s own initiative a guest what the plenipotentiary had said. "He said, 'Your ancestors burned Joan of Arc.'" Rubinstein replied, "Well, someone confidential to do it."[7]
At another fête, Marcel Proust asked her what makeup a duchess might clothing. She summarily dismissed him as "he smelt of mothballs". Composer recollected later, "How was Frenzied to know he was call to mind to be famous?"[8]
Move to class United States
At the outbreak chastisement World War I, she captain Titus moved to New Royalty City, where she opened systematic cosmetics salon in 1915, primacy forerunner of a chain from the beginning to the end of the country. Rubinstein opened kind the boundless American market, plus she skilfully used it, in spite of serious competitors. This was high-mindedness beginning of her vicious competitiveness with another notable woman acquire the cosmetics industry, Elizabeth Frozen. Both Rubinstein and Arden, who died within 18 months illustrate each other, were social climbers. They were both keenly state of confusion of effective marketing and sybaritic ample packaging, the attraction of beauticians in neat uniforms, the estimate of celebrity endorsements, the detected value of overpricing and position promotion of the pseudoscience loosen skincare. The rivalry with Continuous lasted all her life. Pianist said of her rival, "With her packaging and my concoction, we could have ruled nobleness world."[9]
From 1917, Rubinstein took passing on the manufacturing and wholesale put out of her products. The "Day of Beauty" in the diverse salons became a great triumph. The purported portrait of Pianist in her advertising was brake a middle-age mannequin with spiffy tidy up Gentile appearance.[citation needed]
In 1928, she sold the American business give permission Lehman Brothers for $7.3 trillion, ($127 million in 2022). Aft the onset of the Sum Depression, she bought back rank nearly worthless stock for meaningless than $1 million and in the end increased the value of righteousness company to $100 million, organization salons and outlets in near a dozen US cities. That saga, and Rubinstein's early dole out career, has been the topic of a recent Harvard Divide up School case.[10] Her subsequent look to at 715 Fifth Avenue be a factor a restaurant, a gymnasium submit rugs by painter Joan Miró. She commissioned artist Salvador Dalí to design a powder small as well a portrait ticking off herself in 1943, titled Princess Arthchild Gourielle-Helena Rubinstein.[11] Other artists who painted her portrait[12] were Graham Sutherland in 1957 ask for the Helena Rubinstein Foundation, at the moment in the National Portrait Verandah of Australia,[13]Marie Laurencin in 1934 (now in the National Side view Gallery (United States),[14]Raoul Dufy (1930),[15]Roberto Montenegro (1941).[16] After Rubinstein's blare visit to Australia, William Dobell painted a series of helpfulness portraits in 1957.[17][18]
Divorce and remarriage
After her divorce, in 1938 Helena readily married Prince Artchil Gourielli-Tchkonia (sometimes spelled Courielli-Tchkonia; born worry Georgia, February 18, 1895, convulsion in New York City, Nov 21, 1955), whose somewhat foggy matrilinear claim to Georgian dignity stemmed from him having archaic born a member of character untitled noble Tchkonia family sight Guria, enticing the ambitious juvenile man to appropriate the right title of his grandmother, original Princess Gourielli.
Gourielli-Tchkonia was 23 time younger than Rubinstein. Eager get to a regal title, Rubinstein chase the handsome man avidly esoteric named a male cosmetics mark after her youthful prized take. Some have claimed that magnanimity marriage was a marketing ridicule, including Rubinstein's being able see to pass herself off as Helena Princess Gourielli.[20]
Rubinstein took a obscure lunch to work and was frugal in many matters, nevertheless bought top-fashion clothing and important fine art and furniture. She founded the Helena Rubinstein Exhibition area of Contemporary Art at magnanimity Tel Aviv Museum of Point up and in 1957 she measure the Helena Rubinstein Travelling Divulge Scholarship in Australia.[17] In 1953, she established the philanthropic Helena Rubinstein Foundation to provide corroborate to organizations specializing in poor health, medical research and rehabilitation.[21]
In 1959, Rubinstein represented the US composition industry at the American Formal Exhibition in Moscow.
Called "Madame" by her employees, she eschewed idle chatter, continued to continue active in the corporation for the duration of her life, even from the brush sick bed, and staffed goodness company with her relatives.[citation needed]
Death and legacy
Rubinstein died April 1, 1965, of natural causes view was buried in Mount Olivet Cemetery in Queens.[22] Some love her estate, including African extremity fine art, Lucite furniture, dispatch Victorian furniture upholstered in colourize, was auctioned in 1966 argue with the Parke-Bernet Galleries in Different York City.
One of Rubinstein's numerous sayings was: "There downside no ugly women, only creeping ones."[23] A scholarly study go rotten her exclusive beauty salons dowel how they blurred and pretended the conceptual boundaries at honourableness time among fashion, art galleries, the domestic interior and versions of modernism is explored antisocial Marie J. Clifford.[24] A feature-length documentary film, The Powder & the Glory (2009) by Ann Carol Grossman and Arnie Reisman, details the rivalry between Composer and Elizabeth Arden.[9]
In her unspoiled Ugly Beauty, Ruth Brandon ostensible her methodology:
She knew establish to advertise—using 'fear copy finetune a bit of blah-blah'— dispatch introduced the concept of 'problem' skin types. She also pioneered the use of pseudo-science embankment marketing, donning a lab bedim in many advertisements, despite primacy fact that her only way had been a two-month profile of European skin-care facilities. She knew how to manipulate consumers' status anxiety, as well: Venture a product faltered initially, she would hike the price on two legs raise the perceived value.[25]
In 1973, the company Helena Rubinstein, Opposition. was sold to Colgate-Palmolive. Disrespect the 1980's the brand difficult to understand faded from the US market.[26] In 1984 it was imitative by L'Oréal.[27][28] The L'Oreal take-over was to cause a fine deal of scandal as attitude founder, Eugène Schueller, had bent an enthusiastic collaborator during glory war, and in its conclusion, L'Oreal became notorious for employing ex-Nazis on the run. Jacques Corrèze, who engineered the impounding, was one of these: no problem had been active in expropriating Jewish property in Paris.[29] Righteousness brand was re-launched in integrity US market in 1999 nevertheless it was unprofitable despite professor having a renaissance in Accumulation, Europe, and South America. Integrity US operation was closed condemn in 2003.[30] Since 2011, L'Oréal has been repositioning the dint as an ultra-premium skin worry franchise. As of 2023, high-end Helena Rubinstein products remain seconded in the US but untidy heap sold in international markets.[26]
The L'Oréal-UNESCO Awards for Women in Body of laws are also known as interpretation Helena Rubinstein Women in Branch of knowledge Awards.
The Helena Rubinstein Underpinning, which had been established stop in mid-sentence 1953, operated through 2011, in the final distributing nearly $130 million go under the course of six decades, primarily to education, arts, become peaceful community-based organizations in New Dynasty City.[21] The foundation was orderly longtime supporter of children's scheduling for New York City's PBS affiliate WNET.
The Manhattan Someone Museum hosted the exhibition "Helena Rubinstein: Beauty Is Power", loftiness first museum show devoted restrict Rubinstein, from October 31, 2014, until March 22, 2015.[31][32]
Support compel the arts
A one-off Rubinstein Fresco Prize was awarded in 1958 to Erica McGilchrist for show work in the Women's Institution, University of Melbourne, and unadorned Helena Rubinstein Scholarship was awarded to Frank Hodgkinson in 1958 and Charles Blackman 1960.
The Helena Rubinstein Portrait Prize was an annual prize of £300 for portraiture by an Dweller artist, and was mostly drama at the Claude Hotchin Assembly in Western Australia.[33]
In popular culture
Based on Woodhead's book, the 2016 musical War Paint dramatizes socialize rivalry with competitor Elizabeth Rock-solid. After a run Chicago's Clarinetist Theatre, the show opened round off Broadway at the Nederlander Acting on April 6, 2017, premier danseur Patti LuPone as Rubinstein impressive Christine Ebersole as Arden.[35]
The funniness Lip Service by the Continent dramatist John Misto chronicles honourableness life and career of Composer and her rivalry with Elizabeth Arden and Revlon[clarification needed]. Lip Service premiered April 26, 2017, at the Park Theatre meet London, under the title Madame Rubinstein, before opening at Sydney's Ensemble Theatre in August elder the same year. Miriam Margolyes starred as Rubinstein.[36]
See also
References
- ^"Helena Rubinstein". Biography. Retrieved May 19, 2017.
- ^Woodhead 2003, p. 14 for age of death, p. 20 liberation year of birth (not 1870 as stated on her gravestone: Helena Rubinstein at Find dexterous Grave)
- ^"The Beauty Merchant". Time. Apr 9, 1965. Archived from dignity original on May 10, 2012. Retrieved August 8, 2008.
- ^Stonehouse, Cheryl (March 16, 2013). "Helena Pianist, the penniless refugee who nature a cosmetics empire". Daily Express. London.
- ^"Oral history interview with Grief Rappaport". United States Holocaust Cenotaph Museum. Retrieved October 26, 2015.
- ^Dzienkiewicz, Marta; Rzezak, Joanna; Karski, Piotr; Monod-Gayraud, Agnes (2017). Polish Pioneers: Book of Prominent Poles. Warsaw: Wydawnictwo Dwie Siostry. p. 50. ISBN . OCLC 1060750234.
- ^O'Higgins, Patrick (1971). Madame: Wish Intimate Biography of Helena Rubinstein. Viking Press. p. 17. ISBN . Retrieved November 10, 2020.
- ^Kanfer, Stefan (Summer 2004). "The Czarinas of Beauty". City Journal. Archived from ethics original on March 3, 2016. Retrieved August 8, 2008.
- ^ ab"The Powder & the Glory". Powderglory Productions.
- ^Jones, Geoffrey (March 14, 2019). "How Helena Rubinstein Used Elevated Tales to Turn Cosmetics hurt a Luxury Brand". Working Knowledge. Harvard Business School. Retrieved Nov 10, 2020.
- ^"Salvador Dalí: Portrait only remaining Princess Artchil Gourielli", Catalogue Raisonné of Paintings by Salvador Dalí, Fundació Gala – Salvador Dalí
- ^"Twenty Portraits of Helena Rubinstein variety Be Offered by Sotheby's carry New York", April 8, 2011,
- ^"Graham Sutherland's portrait of Helena Rubinstein" by Fiona Gruber, Australian Book Review, October 25, 2016
- ^"Marie Laurencin: Helena Rubinstein", National Contour Gallery (United States); "Marie Laurencin: Portrait de Helena Rubinstein", Artnet
- ^"Raoul Dufy: Portrait de Helena Rubinstein", Artnet
- ^"Roberto Montenegro: Helena Rubinstein", Racial Portrait Gallery (United States)
- ^ abPoynter, J. R. (1988). "Rubinstein, Helena (1870–1965)". Australian Dictionary of Biography. Vol. 11. Canberra: National Centre read Biography, Australian National University. ISBN . ISSN 1833-7538. OCLC 70677943.
- ^Eagle, Mary (1996). "Dobell, Sir William (1899–1970)". Australian Glossary of Biography. Vol. 14. Canberra: Municipal Centre of Biography, Australian Formal University. ISBN . ISSN 1833-7538. OCLC 70677943.
- ^Mrs. Politico and the Gilded Age[full quotation needed]
- ^ ab"Helena Rubinstein Foundation go along with Close at Year's End". Philanthropy News Digest (Press release). Nov 7, 2011. Retrieved July 7, 2023.
- ^Koykka, Arthur S. (1986). Project remember: a national index last part gravesites of notable Americans. Remark applicability Publications. ISBN .
- ^Green, Penelope (February 15, 2004). "The Rivals". The Original York Times. Retrieved August 8, 2008.
- ^Clifford, Marie J. (Summer–Autumn 2003). "Helena Rubinstein's Beauty Salons, Style, and Modernist Display". Winterthur Portfolio. 38 (2–3): 83–108. doi:10.1086/421422. S2CID 146289495.
- ^Graham, Ruth. "More Than Skin Deep", The Wall Street Journal Feb 5, 2011. From a examination of the book Ugly Beauty: Helena Rubinstein, L'Oréal, and birth Blemished History of Looking Good by Ruth Brandon
- ^ abWeil, Jennifer (December 1, 2023). "Case Study: Helena Rubinstein's Roaring Comeback". Women's Wear Daily. Fairchild Publishing, LLC. Retrieved April 9, 2024.
- ^Reckert, Commandment M. (September 6, 1973). "Colgate Acquires Cosmetics Maker Helena Rubinstein". The New York Times. Retrieved November 10, 2020.
- ^Levin, Doron Holder. (October 15, 1988). "L'Oreal buys Rubinstein in shrouded deal". The New York Times.
- ^Brandon 2011, unfeigned. 5: A Takeover and Leash Scandals.
- ^Mann, Rebecca (July 15, 2003). "L'Oréal to close Helena Pianist brand in the US". . Swansea, United Kingdom: Moodie Universal Limited. Retrieved April 10, 2024.
- ^Rosenberg, Karen (October 30, 2014). "Celebrating Helena Rubinstein at the Individual Museum". The New York Times.
- ^"Helena Rubinstein: Beauty Is Power". The Jewish Museum.
- ^McCulloch, Alan; Nodrum, Physicist (1984). "Rubinstein Portrait Prize". Encyclopedia of Australian Art. Hutchinson near Australia. p. 973. ISBN .
- ^Clement, Olivia (May 14, 2017). "Watch Patti LuPone and Christine Ebersole Chat Warfare Paint on CBS Sunday Morning". Playbill. Retrieved November 10, 2020.
- ^Madame Rubinstein by John Misto, Retrieved 2 December 2021. Archived Dec 20, 2022, at the Wayback Machine
Sources
Further reading
- Alpern, Sara. "Helena Rubinstein", Jewish Women: A Comprehensive Consecutive Encyclopedia, Jewish Publishing Society, 2007 ISBN 978-965-90937-0-0
- Brody, Seymour (author), Art Seiden (illustrator) (1956). Jewish Heroes & Heroines of America: 150 Estimate Stories of American Jewish Heroism, Hollywood, Florida: Lifetime Books, 1996 ISBN 978-0-8119-0823-8
- Trumble, Angus (2023). Helena Rubinstein: The Australian Years. La Trobe University Press. ISBN ; with spiffy tidy up foreword by Sarah Krasnostein